This block uses traditional needle turn applique pieces with no raw edges, but you can choose to sew them down with your machine – as I did – if you don’t fancy sewing by hand. Feel free to add more leaves to the outside of the wreath – I chose to pair mine up inside and out.
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Block thirty-six designed by Kerry Foster
Fabric and cutting guide
Download the template pages here
 9½” square of fabric one (Kerry used a white and gold fabric)
 fat quarter of fabric two (Kerry used a green print fabric)
You will also need a dissolvable pen, a scrap of card, aluminium foil and appliqué pins or basting glue.
Step one: Cut a 10″ square from fabric two and then cut it diagonally into two triangles. Sew the triangles back together into a polygon with the diagonal cuts (bias edge) on the outside. Press seams open. Draw lines on the back of the fabric as shown a scant 1″ apart along the longest edge and work your way across the whole piece. Don’t use a Frixion pen because you will need to press this again and you need the lines to stay.
Step two: Bring the two sides together so that the lines run into each other. Offset by one line and pin. Sew together. Press the seam open as best as you can, and then cut along the line (with scissors) – it will just be one continuous line, so you will get a continuous strip of bias tape! You will need no more than 38″.
Step three: Fold the fabric one square in half and then half again and press the point to mark the centre. With a soluble pen, mark 1½” from the centre of each of the edges.
Step four: Align the end of the bias tape with the top of the bottom line and pin in place. Ease it in a curve until you get the next centre point and pin in place. Repeat until you are back at the beginning.
Step five: Snip off most of the surplus bias tape and fold under the end. Pin over the top of the starting end to hide the raw edge.
Step six: Ease the curve out between the pins so that it is round and pin as you go. Press in place if you used a fusible bias tape maker, removing the pins as you go. If you didn’t, you can leave the pins as they are or use a glue pen to stick in place.
Step seven: Copy the template onto card or you can use Mylar template plastic as it won’t melt and cut out on the line. Stack a piece of foil, a piece of fabric face down, and the template as shown.
Step eight: Work your way around the edge folding the foil smoothly over the edges and wrapping the fabric around the template as it does so. Press the foil on both sides with a hot iron but BE CAREFUL, leave it for a little while before flipping as it will be seriously hot. Once cooled a little, unpeel the foil and pull of the fabric. You may be able to reuse the foil once or twice more. This is how they will look front and back. Make 16.
Step nine: Position the first four as shown; make sure you have a 3/8″ distance at least from the outside leaves with the edge of the background. Glue or pin in place. Continue with the remaining eight leaves as shown.
Stitch down as you like. You can either stitch it down by hand like traditional needle turn applique, or you can machine it down with a straight stitch, a tiny blind hem or a tiny zig zag.
You can use a ½” bias tape maker if you wish, following the instructions that come with it. I used one with fusible web but if you haven’t got one, don’t worry. Fold the sides to meet in the middle along the whole length, pressing as you go.
General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks
- Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
- Seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise
- All blocks are 9” finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9½” using a square ruler.
- Always press your fabrics before starting
- Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.