Block thirty-two

Block thirty-two designed by Hilary Jordan

Block thirty-two designed by Hilary Jordan

Hi everyone! I am very excited to be sharing my Modern Fussy Cutting block with you today. I love fabric and have been steadily growing my stash since I started quilting in 2012. Fussy cutting is such a fun way to feature some of your favorite fabrics, and my block was inspired by an art gallery. Each little box is like a picture hanging on the wall ūüôā I used some of my favorite Lizzy House fabrics in coordinating green shades, but feel free to use whatever you want for your fussy cuts!

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Block thirty-two designed by Hilary Jordan

Fabric and cutting guide

Fussy cut the following from fabric one (Hilary used a variety of prints):
[1] 3¬ĺ‚ÄĚ x 4¬ľ‚ÄĚ rectangle – piece A
[1] 2¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 5¬ĺ‚ÄĚ rectangle – piece B
[1] 1¬ĺ‚ÄĚ x 3‚ÄĚ rectangle – piece C
[1] 2¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 3‚ÄĚ rectangle – piece D

Cut the following from fabric two (Hilary used a white solid):
[2] 1¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 5¬ĺ‚Ä̬†rectangles
[1] 1¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 4‚Ä̬†rectangle
[1] 1¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 4¬ľ‚Ä̬†rectangle
[2] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 8¬ľ‚Ä̬†rectangles
[2] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 9¬ĺ‚ÄĚ rectangles
[1] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 1¬ĺ‚Ä̬†rectangle
[1] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 4‚Ä̬†rectangle
[1] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 4¬ľ‚Ä̬†rectangle
[1] 2¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 3‚Ä̬†rectangle

Instructions

Step one

Step one

Step one: To assemble each of your fussy cut units…

  • Unit A: Stitch the 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 4¬ľ‚Ä̬†rectangle from fabric two¬†to the top of fussy cut piece A.
  • Unit B: Stitch the [2] 1¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 5¬ĺ‚Ä̬†rectangles from fabric two to the top and bottom of fussy cut piece B.
  • Unit C: Stitch the 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 1¬ĺ‚Ä̬†rectangle from fabric two¬†onto the bottom of fussy cut piece C.¬†Stitch the 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 4‚Ä̬†rectangle from fabric two to the right side of your unit.
  • Unit D: Stitch the¬†2¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 3‚Ä̬†rectangle from fabric two onto the top of fussy cut piece D. Continue by stitching the 1¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 4¬ľ‚Ä̬†rectangle from fabric two¬†onto the right side of piece D.¬†Finally stitch the¬†1¬ľ‚ÄĚ x 4‚Ä̬†rectangle from fabric two¬†onto bottom of the unit.

Step two: Stitch Unit D to Unit A and Unit C to Unit B.

Step three

Step three

Step three: Stitch the [2] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 8¬ľ‚Ä̬†rectangles from fabric two to the top and bottom, along the 7¬ĺ‚ÄĚ side.¬†Stitch the¬†[2] 1¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 9¬ĺ‚Ä̬†rectangles from fabric two¬†to the sides of the block. Press and trim to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ square.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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Hilary

About Hilary from Young Texan Mama

Hilary is a quilter and sewist from Houston, TX. She started Young Texan Mama shortly after her first son was born as a mommy blog, but quickly fell in love with the quilting and sewing blog community.

Connect with Raylee

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Block thirty-one

1finished fussy cut dresden plate block

Block thirty-one designed by Raylee Bielenberg

The possibilities for fussy cutting with repeating piecing are never more apparent than with a dresden plate. Your dresden can change drastically all by the placement of the design on the fabric.

I wanted a block that would show the repetition side of fussy cutting and piecing and how that can create its own new pattern within the block by the play of colours against each other.

I have also fallen in love a little with dresden plates as they are such a versatile block and quickly pieced, the fussy cutting takes the longest. They also look a little like a sunflower which is my favourite (in case you didn’t know)

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Block thirty designed by Raylee Bielenberg

Fabric and cutting guide

Download the template page here

Print the template pieces page with the printer settings set to no scaling or 100%. Measure the 2‚ÄĚ test square on the template page to ensure the page is printed correctly.¬†Transfer them to template plastic and cut neatly.

[1] 9¬Ĺ” square of fabric one (Raylee used a cream print)
[1] 3¬Ĺ” square¬†of fabric one (Raylee used a red print)
[16] 3″ x 2″ fussy cut rectangles¬†of fabric two. (Raylee used a red print)

Instructions

Step one

Step one

Step one: Position the template on the fabric, identify a good design to repeat and cut [16] dresden blades. Choose a centre design and cut [1] using the circle template.

Step two

Step two

Step two: Fold the blades in half rights sides together along the long edge and sew along the widest end. Chain piecing is the fastest way for this step. Trim the corner and turn the dresden blades the right way out. Finger press the seam open to reduce bulk, then press carefully with an iron, making sure the points are turned through neatly.

Step three

Step three

Step three: Piece the blades in sets of [2] continuing to press the seams open to reduce bulk. Continue piecing the sets until you have all dresden blades joined and you have a circle of pieces. Press really well using starch if you wish.

Step four

Step four

Step four: Sew a large running stitch on your machine around the centre circle keeping the thread tails long. (Don’t cut them off neatly, you’ll only have to sew it again!)

Step five

Step five

Step four: Using the top thread, pull up the circle to gather it and aim to have your gathers as evenly distributed as possible. This won‚Äôt need too much gathering as we are just creating a smooth seam allowance folded in on the circle. Take the circle to your ironing station and flatten with your hand and then finesse until you are happy with the circle ‚Äď press well, use starch if you like.

Step five: Take your background piece and fold in half both ways finger pressing to create a gentle crease to centre your dresden plate on. Pin in place and sew around the points either by hand or machine.

Step six: Place your centre circle in place and pin carefully. Sew around the circle to complete your block. Press one more time to remove the creases and set your stitches.

Notes:

  • I have used only one¬†fabric for the dresden plate, giving me a repeat on all blades. Optionally you can alternate the fabric with another, or you could have four¬†fabric choices but this will affect the fussy cutting repeat effect on the finished block.
  • The centre circle shows fussy cutting for placement as opposed to the repetition achieved in the blades.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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Raylee0033 700x466

About Raylee from Sunflower Stitcheries and Quilting

Wife, Mum, longarm quilter, designer, teacher.

I have been sewing for as long as I can remember and started quilting professionally 7 years ago in an effort to complete some of the quilt tops my Mum and I had made and also be available for my family, I am very pleased to be able to work from home. I have sewn garments and other projects as well as quilts. I enjoy sharing my love of patchwork and quilting and recently I began teaching which has been a lot of fun.

Connect with Raylee

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Block thirty

Block thirty designed by Crystal McGann

Block thirty designed by Crystal McGann

Fussy cutting‚Ķ We were never great friends‚Ķ but over time, I’m growing to like her more and more. This block takes the fuss out of fussy cutting and lets you easily show off your¬†favourite bit of the¬†fabric print.

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Block thirty designed by Crystal McGann

Fabric and cutting guide

Fabric and cutting guide

Fabric and cutting guide

[1] 4‚ÄĚ square (approximately) of fabric one, cut to centre your feature print (Crystal used¬†a novelty print fabric)
[20] 1-3″ x 9¬Ĺ” strips¬†of fabric two¬†(Crystal used a¬†variety of prints)

Instructions

Step one

Step one

Step one: Place your first strip from fabric two along the top of your feature print, right sides together. Sew your seam against the edge of the strip, press into place and trim back. Going clockwise, keep sewing your strips down to the edge of the feature print until you have completed all sides.

Step two

Step two

Step two:¬†Keep sewing your strips down clockwise, stitching, flipping and pressing until your block is large enough to trim back to¬†9¬Ĺ” square.

 

Note:

Depending on your feature print, you may wish to go around in a square, pentagon or hexagon. The shape is completely up to you!

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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IMG_3284

About Crystal from Raspberry Spool

Crystal is the other half of Project 48 Quilt and the creative force behind Raspberry Spool. Her personality and modern, fresh attitude to quilting is shown through her designs, which gives quilters an opportunity to inject their own personality into their quilts as well.

Connect with Crystal

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Block 29 – Traditional Fussy Cutting from Linden Vine

Final
Final

Block twenty-nine designed by Linden Vine

Introduction

I love fussy cutting! ¬†There are so many ways it can be used – hexagons, kaleidoscopes etc. ¬†I’ve created an easy block this week to show how simple fussy cutting can be.

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Block twenty-one designed by Linden Vine

Fabric and cutting guide

[2] 2¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ squares¬†from fabric one¬†(Linden¬†used a white¬†floral) NOTE:¬†all must be exactly the same (see step one)
[2] 4¬Ĺ” x 3″ rectangles fabric two¬†(Linden¬†used a dark pink scallop)
[2] 9¬Ĺ” x 3″ rectangles fabric two¬†(Linden¬†used a dark pink scallop)
Instructions

Step one:¬†We’re going to start by¬†making the fussy cut four patch.¬†Find a fabric that has a distinct repeat of approximately 2¬Ĺ” and at least four repeats in the strip. ¬†Cut a 2¬Ĺ” strip.
Cut [1]¬†2¬Ĺ” square which has a pleasing pattern.¬†Layer this square onto the strip and cut [3]¬†more, exactly the same.

I find it helpful to place a pin through all [4] layers to ensure they are exactly the same.

Pins in Place

Step two

Step two: Take the [4] squares and lay them out to create a suitable design. Lay the first square down, flip the next square 90 degrees, then the next and the next. Here are two possible designs I came up with using my four squares.

Plan 2

Option one

Plan 1

Option two

When you find a design you’re happy with, sew the pieces into a four patch block.

Step three:¬†Take¬†the¬†[2] 4¬Ĺ” x 3″ rectangles and join to either side of the four patch. ¬†Press towards the rectangles.

Step four:¬†Take the [2] 9¬Ĺ” x 3″ rectangles and join to the top and bottom of the block. ¬†Press towards the rectangles.

Notes

  • This block looks difficult, but if you break it down into its parts and have patience, you’ll be fine!
  • You’ll find starch to be very useful, especially for the small pieces.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting.
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise.
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting.
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.

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Linden-Vine-201x300

About Linden from Vine Lines Creative

Linden is the Creative Director of Vine Lines Creative and co-creator of Project48Quilt, a year long sampler which blends traditional and modern quilting methods.¬† Linden’s background is in arts administration and she has been quilting for twenty years, an art form which has now become her profession.¬† Linden is a designer and teacher and enjoys writing about quilting and running a creative business through her blog.

Connect with Linden

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Block twenty-eight

Block twenty-eight designed by Paula Storm

Block twenty-eight designed by Paula Storm

This week we are doing things a bit differently, Paula has made us a video for how to complete her flower block. Theres a bit of appliqu√© involved, but I think you will agree that it’s an amazing block.

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Block twenty-eight designed by Paula Storm

Fabric and cutting guide

[1] 10‚ÄĚ square of fabric one (Paula used a light print)
[21] approximately¬†6″ squares¬†of fabric two¬†(Paula used eight¬†different fabrics)
[1]¬†approximately¬†6″¬†squares¬†of fabric¬†three (Paula used an orange fabric).

Download the applique template here

Instructions

Step one:¬†Print your template onto two a4 sheets at ‘actual size’. Create templates using heavy card or freezer paper for the three petal sizes and the middle circle. Cut your templates out.

Step two:¬†Cut your petals a 1/4″ bigger than your templates and baste your seams around the templates. Use starch and iron well to maintain your shape. Once your petal has set, pull the template out and continue until you have [7] sets of petals, in [3] different sizes and one middle circle.

Step three: Lay your petals and circles out on your block following the template. Your flower will overlap your block slightly. Baste your flower to your fabric one square once you are happy with the positioning.

Step four: Stitch your flower down using a whip stitch or by machine if you prefer.

Step five:¬†Trim your block down to size (9 1/2″ square).

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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paulawebprofile

About Paula Storm from Paula Storm Designs

Paula designs sewing patterns and tools for Quilters and sewers.¬†More importantly though, she’s¬†a mum to the 4 most beautiful children on the face of this planet.

Not that she’s¬†biased¬†or anything. ūüėȬ†

Connect with Paula

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Block twenty-seven

Block twenty-seven designed by Crystal McGann

Block twenty-seven designed by Crystal McGann

Making flowers in July seems like a perfect antidote to Australia’s winter. This week, we even saw snow in our nations capital – which is certainly very exciting. It’s so rare that it snows in the city, actually lands and hangs around long enough to capture it. I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the block in the shimmering snow, or a dusting as our¬†Project 48 member Sue calls it.

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Block twenty-seven designed by Crystal McGann

Fabric and cutting guide

[4] 5‚ÄĚ square of fabric one (Crystal used two different pink prints)
[12] 4″ x 6″¬†rectangles¬†of fabric two¬†(Crystal used a¬†grey solid)

Instructions

Step one

Step one:¬†On the wrong side of your fabric one squares, draw a triangle coming from one corner of the square (using the picture as a guide). No need to measure, just try to keep the points about a 1/4″ in from the edge for seam allowance.

Step two

Step two

Step two:¬†Place a fabric two rectangle under the top of the triangle, right sides together, over lapping the edges by a 1/4″. Flip the rectangle over and back into place to make sure the whole piece will be covered when it has been sewn and pressed into place. Stitch using the drawn line as a guide and trim back the seam allowance. press the piece open.

Step three

Step three

Step three:¬†Repeat step two for the other two sides of the triangle. Press the unit well and trim back to 5″ square. Continue making the units until all [4] units are completed.

Step four: Sew the [4] units together to finish the block.

Note:

You can reduce the bulk in the centre seam by loosening a few of those end stitches and massaging the seams open. Press all four seams in alternate directions.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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IMG_3284

About Crystal from Raspberry Spool

Crystal is the other half of Project 48 Quilt and the creative force behind Raspberry Spool. Her personality and modern, fresh attitude to quilting is shown through her designs, which gives quilters an opportunity to inject their own personality into their quilts as well.

Connect with Crystal

Website | Facebook | Instagram

Block twenty-six

Block twenty-six designed by Anorina Morris

Welcome to my block, at Project 48. Upon researching a traditional flower block (and by researching, I mean following link after link and getting completely distracted on Pinterest), I decided to create a simple block. I created my block with some absolutely beautiful Confetti Cottons by Riley Blake Designs, but feel free to use any fabric you like to make it your own.

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Block twenty-six designed by Anorina Morris

Fabric and cutting guide

Fabric and cutting guide

[4] 2 1/4″ x 4 1/8″ rectangles of fabric one¬†(Anorina¬†used a white solid)
[4] 2 3/4″ squares – cut across a diagonal to yield 8 HSTs fabric one (Anorina¬†used a white solid)
[4] 2 1/4″ squares of fabric one (Anorina¬†used a¬†white solid)
[4] 2 3/4″ squares – cut across a diagonal to yield 8 HSTs of fabric two (Anorina¬†used a yellow¬†solid)
[4] 2 1/4″ squares of fabric three¬†(Anorina¬†used an¬†orange¬†solid)
[1]¬†2 1/4″ square of fabric four¬†(Anorina¬†used a red¬†solid)

Instructions

Step one: Place a fabric one and a fabric two half square triangle (HST) together, with right sides together. Sew along the long edge. Repeat this for the remaining HSTs. Press to the darker side.¬†Trim the HSTs to 2 1/4″ square (use a Bloc Loc ruler for greater accuracy).

Step two

Step two

Step two: Refer to the image (above) to lay out the block components. Begin by sewing the components into pairs. Return them back to the flat surface to ensure correct position and rotation, and then sew the next section. Sew into [5] rows and then sew the rows together.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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Anorina-2-copy-e1379637899941

About Anorina Morris from Samelia’s Mum

I picked up a needle and thread around 7 years ago. What started as a hobby and a way to connect with other women (while I was home with 2 very young children), quickly became my passion. You can find my projects regularly in Australian craft magazine publications, or lots of free patterns and tutorials over on my blog – Samelia’s Mum.

Connect with Anorina

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Block twenty-five

Block Twenty-Five РTraditional Flower Block by Linden Vine

Introduction

This month is all about flowers. ¬†We’re in the midst of winter here in Canberra so I’m looking forward to visions of Spring with all your beautiful blocks.

Flower Block designed by Linden Vine

Flower Block designed by Linden Vine

My block is a combination of piecing, fussy cutting and applique.  You are welcome to decide what form of applique you would like to use РI used Vliesofix and will secure with raw edge when I quilt it.

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Block twenty-five designed by Linden Vine

Fabric and cutting guide

[1] 3¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 9¬Ĺ” rectangle square from fabric one¬†(Linden¬†used a white striped tone-on-tone)
[2] 3¬Ĺ” x 4¬Ĺ” rectangles from fabric one (Linden¬†used a white striped tone-on-tone)
[2] 3¬Ĺ”¬†squares from fabric one (Linden¬†used a white striped tone-on-tone)
[1] 3¬Ĺ” x 1¬Ĺ” rectangle from¬†fabric two¬†(Linden¬†used a green¬†floral)
[1] 3¬Ĺ” x 9¬Ĺ” rectangle¬†from fabric three¬†(Linden¬†used a¬†dark pink polka dot)
Scraps of floral fabric, suitable for fussy cutting.  At least one big flower; some small flowers are also optional.

Instructions
Step one – Flower Stem:
Stitch the two [2] 3¬Ĺ” x 4¬Ĺ” rectangles from fabric one¬†to each side of the¬†3¬Ĺ” x 1¬Ĺ” rectangle from¬†fabric two, to create the stem of the flower. ¬†Press towards the darker fabric.

Step two – Flower pot:
Take the¬†3¬Ĺ” x 9¬Ĺ” rectangle¬†from fabric three¬†and the¬†[2] 3¬Ĺ” x 4¬Ĺ” rectangles from fabric one.¬†Draw a diagonal line on each triangle and stitch to each end of the rectangle, as you did for the flying geese units, noting the different position.
Trim ¬ľ” outside the line and press away from the triangle.

Stitched Flying Geese

Stitching the squares to the rectangle

Finished Flying Geese

The finished flower pot unit

Step three – Joining the Rows:
Take the 3¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ x 9¬Ĺ” rectangle square from fabric one and the two units you’ve just made and following the diagram, stitch the rows together to make the block.
Press seams towards the top of the block.

Main Block before the flowers are attached.

Step four:
Take your large floral fussy cut flower and attach to the block using your favourite applique method, either needleturn, buttonhole or raw edge. ¬†We’ll be looking further at applique in a subsequent month.

Flower Block designed by Linden Vine

Flower Block designed by Linden Vine

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting.
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise.
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting.
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.

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Linden-Vine-201x300

About Linden from Vine Lines Creative

Linden is one of the creators of Project48Quilt and has been quilting for almost twenty years. Quilting combines her love of fabric and all things symmetrical and she’s enjoying letting loose a little and improvising through her exploration of Modern Quilting. As well as running a creative business consultancy and pattern testing agency, Linden works and teaches at her LQS.

Connect with Linden

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Block twenty-four

Block twenty-four designed by Stacey Day

Block twenty-four designed by Stacey Day

I am a traditional quilter at heart. My grandmother taught me to quilt, and no matter what I chose, she would just teach me how. She never once told me something might be too hard or why don’t we try something smaller. It was always “Okay, here’s how it’s done.” All of my piecing and construction skills were not only taught by her, but she also explained the whys of the so-called rules of quilting.

This particular block is a known traditional block, and easily falls into the category of either a chain block or a Lemoyne Star block. I call it a Spinning Star, but you may find it listed under the name Wrapped Star. I like it because there are no matching seams in the diamond sections, but you still get to piece some movement into the block. I chose a known block because I wanted the focus to be on construction technique.

Traditional construction relies heavily on precision piecing and accurate seam allowances. Before you get started, make sure your machine is set at a perfect scant 1/4″ seam allowance by finding the exact 1/4″, and moving your needle off that by a millimeter (one needle width). If you have a walking foot, I suggest using it to help deal with the bias edges in the block. You will also need a removable marking pen, I use a Frixon pen but go with whatever you are comfortable with.

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Editors note: If you haven’t¬†sewn Y or set in seams before – this tutorial by¬†Edyta Sitar of Laundry Basket Quilts¬†will help you on your way.

Block twenty-four designed by Stacey Day

 

Fabric and cutting guide

Fabric and cutting guide

[1] 1 7/8″x 20″ strip of fabric one (Stacey used xxx fabric)
[1] 5″ square of fabric one (Stacey used xxx fabric)
[1]¬†1 7/8″x 20″ strip of fabric two¬†(Stacey used xxx fabric)
[1] 1″ x Width of fabric strip of fabric three¬†(Stacey used four different green prints)

Editors note: If you would prefer a solid star, cut ¬†[1] 2 1/2″ x width of fabric strip of fabric three and skip the construction in step four.¬†

Instructions

Step one

Step one

Step one: Take the fabric one and fabric two strips and sew them right sides together. Press the seams open. Cut the fabric one/two strips set into [8] rectangles measuring
1 7/8″ x 3 1/4″.

Step two: Sew the rectangles right sides together so that fabric one¬†is touching fabric two as shown, matching the seam allowance, to make [4] four-patch blocks. Press the seam open. Trim the four-patch blocks to 3 1/4″ square and set them aside for now.

Step three: Sew the fabric three strips together into a strip set, keeping them in order from the top of the set to the bottom. Press the seam allowances open in the opposite direction that you sewed them together. This will keep the grain from twisting and the strip set will be as straight as possible.

Step two

Step four

 

Step four: Take an acrylic ruler and match the 45¬į line with the top of the strip set as shown, so that the ruler is on an angle from top left to bottom right. Trim the end of the strip set.

Step five

Step five – line up with the 2 1/2″ line

Step five: Line up the 2 1/2″ line of the ruler with the cut side of the strip set, and the 45¬į line with the bottom of the strip set as shown, and cut a diamond.¬† Repeat, cutting out [8] diamonds total from the strip set.

Step seven

Step six and seven

Step six: Using a removable marking pen of choice, mark the seam allowance on the wrong side of each piece. This is critical to making the most accurate Y-seams possible, especially for the bias edges.  Note that from this point onwards, you will only be lightly finger pressing the pieces as they are sewn. You will not use the iron until the very last step.

Step seven: Pin the fabric one quarter square triangle to the diamond sections, matching the marked seam allowances. Sew the pieces together, through the top dot, and stopping exactly on the marked dot at the bottom. Take a backstitch or two to secure the stitching line.

Step eight: Pin a second diamond to the remaining side of the triangle as shown, matching the seam allowances at the dot. Make sure that the seam allowance from the first diamond is pushed to the side so you do not sew through it. Be careful when sewing, as both pieces are sewn together on the bias edge (this is where the walking foot comes in handy). Sew the pieces together, again sewing through the top dot at stopping exactly on the bottom dot and taking a backstitch or two.

Step nine: Fold the piece so that the diamonds are now right sides together and the background triangle has a fold. Match and pin the seam allowances, pushing the previous two seam allowances up and out of the way. Start your seam with the needle exactly through the top dot ( I do this by hand to make sure it is precise) and then take a pair of stitches, backstitch, and then continue sewing all the way through the bottom. I use the pin at the bottom to feed the bottom points evenly through.

Note: When you open the block and look at it from the right side, there should be no puckers in the junction of the Y. If there is, take a look to make sure the stitches do not extend past the dots into the seam allowance. If this is the case, carefully remove ONLY the stitch n the seam allowance. Once it is out then the block will lay flat without puckers. If you notice that the seam allowances do not all meet exactly in the centre, DO NOT WORRY. It is okay to have a gap of about a stitch length. This will be dealt with in the final pressing stage.

Step ten: Repeat the y-seam technique for all of the diamonds and triangles, to make [4] Star Quarters. Finger press the seam allowances of the first two seams towards the triangle, and the seam allowance of the diamonds all in the same direction. I tend to press them counter-clockwise, as this just seems to be the way the fabric wants to flow.

Step eleven: Using the same y-seam technique, sew [2] star quarters together with a
four-patch block, making sure that the fabric two section of the four-patch block is at the junction of the y-seam. Sew a second four-patch to the opposite side as shown to make [2] half stars.

Step twelve

Step twelve

Step twelve: Sew the half stars together, sewing the four-patch-to-diamond seams first using the same y-seam technique and being very careful not to catch any of the seam allowances in the seam. Then fold the piece in half and match the centre seam of the diamonds carefully, making sure that the seam allowances in this case are still spinning in the same counter-clockwise direction, and sew from dot to dot, backstitching at either end.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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Stacey

About Stacey from Stacey in stitches

By day, Stacey is an unassuming X-Ray Technologist in hot pink scrubs living in beautiful British Columbia. By night (and naptime) she transforms into an experienced quilter, pattern writer and designer, whose superpowers are directly related to the amount of thread ends on the floor (that’s what she tells herself). A third generation quilter, Stacey caught the sewing bug early in her life (apparently it’s hereditary) and earned a Diploma of Fashion Production in 2005. Her work has appeared in numerous quilt shows and trunk shows across North America, and her library of patterns can be found on her website.

Connect with Stacey

Website | Instagram

Block twenty-three

Block twenty-three designed by Crystal McGann

Block twenty-three designed by Crystal McGann

Making fabric slabs is a perfect way to use up your little scraps or offcuts and there are endless way to incorporate fabric slabs into any project or block.

Flying geese can be made in several ways ‚Äď but the no waste flying geese method¬†makes four geese units at a time quickly and easily, with no fabric waste. You don‚Äôt need any special gadgets to make them up either, so that‚Äôs another bonus!

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Block twenty-three designed by Crystal McGann

Fabric and cutting guide

The scraps used to make the 5" fabric slab

The scraps used to make the 5″ fabric slab

[1] 5″ square (Crystal used a handful of small scraps)
[1] 5 3/4‚ÄĚ square of fabric one (Crystal used a¬†grey solid)
[4] 2 3/4″¬†squares of fabric one (Crystal used a¬†grey solid)
[4] 3 1/8″ squares of fabric two (Crystal used four various prints)

Instructions

Step one

Step one

Step one: Take your scraps and sew them together into a square that measures a minimum of 5″ square, then trim to an exact 5″ square.

Step two

Step two

Step two: Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the small squares from fabric two. Lay these down on opposite corners of the large square from fabric one, overlapping them in the middle. Sew down a 1/4″ seam on either side of the diagonal lines. Slice through the middle, using the drawn lines as a guide. Press the units, pressing the seams towards the triangles.

Step three

Step three

Step three: Lay a fabric two square down in middle of the unit (on the corner of the original square), overlapping them in the middle. Sew down a 1/4″ seam on either side of the diagonal lines. Slice through the middle, using the drawn lines as a guide.

Step four

Step four

Step four: Press the units, pressing the seams towards the triangles and repeat to complete all [4] geese units. Snip the little corners off to trim up the block.

Step five: Arrange your block out with the flying geese units around the centre square. Sew together in rows and then sew each of the rows together.

General instructions to complete your Project 48 quilt blocks

  • Remember to always read the block tutorial in full before starting
  • Seam allowances are ¬ľ‚ÄĚ unless stated otherwise
  • All blocks are 9‚ÄĚ finished. If you need to square your blocks once they are completed, trim back to 9¬Ĺ‚ÄĚ using a square ruler.
  • Always press your fabrics before starting
  • Press your seams to the dark side or to reduce bulk (unless otherwise noted) at each stage.
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IMG_3284

About Crystal from Raspberry Spool

Crystal is the other half of Project 48 Quilt and the creative force behind Raspberry Spool. Her personality and modern, fresh attitude to quilting is shown through her designs, which gives quilters an opportunity to inject their own personality into their quilts as well.

Connect with Crystal

Website | Facebook | Instagram

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